This week we went for the ultimate PNW "what were you thinking" adventure---the quest for Carbon Glacier in Mt. Rainier National Park. Carbon is the lowest elevation glacier (3500 ft) in the contiguous U.S. and the source of the milky white Carbon River. It also happens to be the biggest (longest, tallest, most voluminous) bad boy outside of Alaska. It used to be easy to get there--but due to some serious flooding of the Carbon River a few years ago, it is now reserved for those willing to walk or bike in 5 miles to the trailhead. This is actually a wonderful thing---the park service realizes it and has no plans to repair the old dirt road. Ipsut Creek Campground is now officially back country--no cars, no rvs, no electricity and (unfortunately) no dogs.
Wednesday, August 31, 2011
Saturday, August 13, 2011
Hurricane on the Olympic Peninsula
Last weekend we set off on our first real camping trip since we moved to Seattle. We had big plans to drive a very remote campground in Olympic National Park---17 miles up a harrowing, narrow dirt road with steep drop-offs and no guard rail. This would put us at around 5400 ft. elevation and squarely in the backcountry without the hassle of having to backpack with the kids. We made it all the way to the beginning of the road to Deer Park, where there was a sign warning us that the campground was full. We didn't quite believe it and pondered forging ahead, but good sense prevailed and we decided it was far too risky to make the drive only to have to turn around. Everything on the OP is full this time of year and none of the campgrounds take reservations, so we were feeling pretty disappointed---but, on the advice of a ranger, we tried another campground and immediately found a nice spot. What a fortuitous set of circumstances, because we ended up spending all of our time at Hurricane Ridge. For many, it is the gateway to the Olympics--very accessible (you can drive to the top) with paved paths and rugged hiking trails that offer views of the Strait of Juan de Fuca to the north and the full Olympic range to the south. We could even see the heavy fog rolling in from the Pacific.
The Cascades are a glorious mountain range, but the Olympics are intoxicating. They are pristine and wild--and for good reason. It isn't easy getting there and the terrain is daunting. Coastal tribes populated the perimeter around the mountains and early settlers didn't venture far to find land for their homesteads. The area was designated a National Forest in 1897, so it has been protected for nearly 115 years.
We decided to wander about a little and then head for the trailhead to Klahhane Ridge.
This trail didn't fool around with a mild uphill at the start---it was full gluteal goodness the entire way to the top. We gave the boys a fair warning, tossed them some inspirational jellybeans, and headed up.
See what I mean? At least we had beautiful meadows (and views) to take our minds off the glute grind.
Dudes on a rock. We made it--and it was so very worth it. Nutella sandwiches all around. We even had a very friendly chipmunk begging for crusts (we did NOT oblige).
Payoff!
We looked everywhere for mountain goats, but the rangers had just run them off from the ridge. There was an incident last summer, in which a man was gored by a male goat and they are working hard at training the goats to stay away from people. It is too bad--for years, people have gone to Hurricane Ridge to see mountain goats.
FG was on his usual hunt for snow patches......
...while EFG chilled on the ridge and JG posed for his "Outside Magazine" cover shoot.
We pressed on a bit farther.
And found an impressive patch of snow. This was a perfect place to watch the low marine clouds dissipate--eventually we could see the Straight of Juan de Fuca, Mt. Baker, and Vancouver Island.
Boys practiced glissading.
JG continued practicing for his cover shoot.
Eventually we had to head down. We met up with an alarmingly friendly young buck on the trail....and I don't mean Elijah.
This could be a scene from "The Sound of Music"!
FG grew tired of the knee-breaking walk down, so he plopped down for a rest.
Did I mention that we camped? Stay tuned for the next post, titled "25 reasons we should buy a EUROVAN."
Stats:
Distance: 5-6 miles. extra points for extreme incline.
Elevation at top: 6046 ft
Elevation gain: 1700 ft. (700 in 1/2 mile)
Jellybeans: countless
EF rating: such awesomeness has never been seen before
JJ rating: speechless
http://www.wta.org/go-hiking/hikes/klahhane-ridge
Notes by Finian: always bring a backpack with stuff you think you will need. if you have a backpack with a clip you can attach a trekking pole and pull your little boy on the hard uphill parts. always bring snacks.
Sunday, August 7, 2011
Crystal Mountain way-apres-ski....
We have been very curious about Crystal Mountain in the summertime. This is our very favorite place to ski and we typically do the schlep to the slopes every other weekend during the winter. It just seemed like the treeless slopes wouldn't be so charming now that they are naked--so we have not been inspired (even by the new gondola) to consider the area for hiking....until now. Once I took a hard look at the trail maps and realized what is under all of that snow (lakes, mines, meadows) we had to give it a try.
We picked a trail that would take us up to a ridge with views into the cascades and out over the slopes.
After a really "rocky" start---(seriously, we had to walk up some very steep, talus slopes) we found ourselves on a lovely forest trail complete with waterfalls, a cool bridge.....
.....and an old mine. All of us managed to resist the temptation to explore the mine (well--Finian needed a little more convincing than the rest of us).
The views of the slopes got even better as we climbed and it was really fun trying to identify our favorite winter runs.
As with so many hikes this year, we eventually ended up in the snow. Our loop trail was supposed to take us to a small lake and the ruins of an old mining town, but we we lost the path in the snow and just stayed on the main trail the rest of the way up to the ridge. Maisy was thrilled to be set free and raced around, leaping over boulders and snout plowing the snow (don't ask). We were surprised by how few people we encountered on the trail and it was really nice to be able to let Maisy off the leash for a while.
Dog-tired and we aren't even halfway to the top.
The top of the ridge offered incredible views of the backcountry bowls.
Never one to say no to a good climb, Justin went for the knoll above the ridge.
We ventured a little further and there was the top of Mt. Rainier. More on that later.
We loved seeing the "backside" of the mountains at Crystal--endless snowcapped peaks and dense forest.
On the way back down we decided to try to get to the lake from the other end of the loop, but ran into even more snow! This pleased the boys and the dog, so we enjoyed the sun while they slid, plowed, and raced around.
Once we were back at the main lodge, we decided to try the new gondola and hitch a ride up the the summit. One of the best things about skiing at Crystal Mountain is the view from the summit......
I am always shocked by the majesty of this mountain. It is always larger and more grand than the image I carry of it in my mind.
The summit also boasts amazing views of Mt. Adams. In fact, on the way up in the gondola I caught a view of Mt. Adams and mistook it for Rainier. As we came to a stop at the summit, I turned to get up and there was Rainier--massive, gorgeous, and awesome (in the truest sense of the word).
Here it is again.....I just can't get enough.
giant mountain
teeny boy
giant mountain....medium boy
Trail Stats: Silver Creek to Pacific Crest Trail (with several short side trails)
Distance: 5 miles
Elevation Gain: 1500 ft
Elevation at Top: 6500 ft
Jellybeans: 10 each
EF rating: awesome! snow sliding rocks!
JJ rating: damn near perfect.
http://www.crystalmountainresort.com/files/1264/New-2011-summer-hiking-map.pdf
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