Bike/Hike/Camp

This week we went for the ultimate PNW "what were you thinking" adventure---the quest for Carbon Glacier in Mt. Rainier National Park.  Carbon is the lowest elevation glacier (3500 ft)  in the contiguous U.S. and the source of the milky white Carbon River.  It also happens to be the biggest (longest, tallest, most voluminous) bad boy outside of Alaska.  It used to be easy to get there--but due to some serious flooding of the Carbon River a few years ago, it is now reserved for those willing to walk or bike in 5 miles to the trailhead.  This is actually a wonderful thing---the park service realizes it and has no plans to repair the old dirt road.  Ipsut Creek Campground is now officially back country--no cars, no rvs, no electricity and (unfortunately) no dogs.  

Hurricane on the Olympic Peninsula

 Last weekend we set off on our first real camping trip since we moved to Seattle.  We had big plans to drive a very remote campground in Olympic National Park---17 miles up a harrowing, narrow dirt road with steep drop-offs and no guard rail.  This would put us at around 5400 ft. elevation and squarely in the backcountry without the hassle of having to backpack with the kids.  We made it all the way to the beginning of the road to Deer Park, where there was a sign warning us that the campground was full.  We didn't quite believe it and pondered forging ahead, but good sense prevailed and we decided it was far too risky to make the drive only to have to turn around.  Everything on the OP is full this time of year and none of the campgrounds take reservations, so we were feeling pretty disappointed---but, on the advice of a ranger, we tried another campground and immediately found a nice spot.  What a fortuitous set of circumstances, because we ended up spending all of our time at Hurricane Ridge.  For many, it is the gateway to the Olympics--very accessible (you can drive to the top) with paved paths and rugged hiking trails that offer views of the Strait of Juan de Fuca to the north and the full Olympic range to the south.  We could even see the heavy fog rolling in from the Pacific.

The Cascades are a glorious mountain range, but the Olympics are intoxicating.  They are pristine and wild--and for good reason.  It isn't easy getting there and the terrain is daunting. Coastal tribes populated the perimeter around the mountains and early settlers didn't venture far to find land for their homesteads.  The area was designated a National Forest in 1897, so it has been protected for nearly 115 years.

We decided to wander about a little and then head for the trailhead to Klahhane Ridge.

This trail didn't fool around with a mild uphill at the start---it was full gluteal goodness the entire way to the top.  We gave the boys a fair warning, tossed them some inspirational jellybeans, and headed up.

See what I mean?  At least we had beautiful meadows (and views) to take our minds off the glute grind.

Dudes on a rock.  We made it--and it was so very worth it.  Nutella sandwiches all around.  We even had a very friendly chipmunk begging for crusts (we did NOT oblige).

Payoff!

We looked everywhere for mountain goats, but the rangers had just run them off from the ridge.  There was an incident last summer, in which a man was gored by a male goat and they are working hard at training the goats to stay away from people.  It is too bad--for years, people have gone to Hurricane Ridge to see mountain goats.

FG was on his usual hunt for snow patches......

...while EFG chilled on the ridge and JG posed for his "Outside Magazine" cover shoot.

We pressed on a bit farther.

And found an impressive patch of snow.  This was a perfect place to watch the low marine clouds dissipate--eventually we could see the Straight of Juan de Fuca, Mt. Baker, and Vancouver Island.

Boys practiced glissading.

JG continued practicing for his cover shoot.

Eventually we had to head down.  We met up with an alarmingly friendly young buck on the trail....and I don't mean Elijah.

This could be a scene from "The Sound of Music"!

FG grew tired of the knee-breaking walk down, so he plopped down for a rest.

Did I mention that we camped?  Stay tuned for the next post, titled "25 reasons we should buy a EUROVAN."

Stats:

Distance:  5-6 miles.  extra points for extreme incline.

Elevation at top:  6046 ft

Elevation gain:  1700 ft.  (700 in 1/2 mile)

Jellybeans:  countless

EF rating:  such awesomeness has never been seen before

JJ rating:  speechless

http://www.wta.org/go-hiking/hikes/klahhane-ridge

Notes by Finian:  always bring a backpack with stuff you think you will need.  if you have a backpack with a clip you can attach a trekking pole and pull your little boy on the hard uphill parts.  always bring snacks.

Crystal Mountain way-apres-ski....

 We have been very curious about Crystal Mountain in the summertime.  This is our very favorite place to ski and we typically do the schlep to the slopes every other weekend during the winter.  It just seemed like the treeless slopes wouldn't be so charming now that they are naked--so we have not been inspired (even by the new gondola) to consider the area for hiking....until now.  Once I took a hard look at the trail maps and realized what is under all of that snow (lakes, mines, meadows) we had to give it a try.

We picked a trail that would take us up to a ridge with views into the cascades and out over the slopes.  

After a really "rocky" start---(seriously, we had to walk up some very steep, talus slopes) we found ourselves on a lovely forest trail complete with waterfalls, a cool bridge.....

.....and an old mine.  All of us managed to resist the temptation to explore the mine (well--Finian needed a little more convincing than the rest of us).

The views of the slopes got even better as we climbed and it was really fun trying to identify our favorite winter runs. 

As with so many hikes this year, we eventually ended up in the snow.  Our loop trail was supposed to take us to a small lake and the ruins of an old mining town, but we we lost the path in the snow and just stayed on the main trail the rest of the way up to the ridge.  Maisy was thrilled to be set free and raced around, leaping over boulders and snout plowing the snow (don't ask).  We were surprised by how few people we encountered on the trail and it was really nice to be able to let Maisy off the leash for a while.

Dog-tired and we aren't even halfway to the top.

The top of the ridge offered incredible views of the backcountry bowls.

Never one to say no to a good climb, Justin went for the knoll above the ridge.

We ventured a little further and there was the top of Mt. Rainier.  More on that later.

We loved seeing the "backside" of the mountains at Crystal--endless snowcapped peaks and dense forest.

On the way back down we decided to try to get to the lake from the other end of the loop, but ran into even more snow!  This pleased the boys and the dog, so we enjoyed the sun while they slid, plowed, and raced around.






Once we were back at the main lodge, we decided to try the new gondola and hitch a ride up the the summit.  One of the best things about skiing at Crystal Mountain is the view from the summit......

I am always shocked by the majesty of this mountain.  It is always larger and more grand than the image I carry of it in my mind.  

The summit also boasts amazing views of Mt. Adams.  In fact, on the way up in the gondola I caught a view of Mt. Adams and mistook it for Rainier.  As we came to a stop at the summit, I turned to get up and there was Rainier--massive, gorgeous, and awesome (in the truest sense of the word).

Here it is again.....I just can't get enough.

giant mountain
teeny boy

giant mountain....medium boy

Trail Stats:  Silver Creek to Pacific Crest Trail (with several short side trails)

Distance:  5 miles

Elevation Gain:  1500 ft

Elevation at Top:  6500 ft

Jellybeans:  10 each

EF rating:  awesome!  snow sliding rocks!

JJ rating:  damn near perfect.

http://www.crystalmountainresort.com/files/1264/New-2011-summer-hiking-map.pdf

Reason #3472 why we love Seattle...

OK--I just made that number up, but I bet we could come up with that many reasons just by naming all the good restaurants.  I should preface this post with a little background info:  we are NOT having summer in Seattle this year.  We are dealing with this by considering it a really mild winter (soon to be followed by a really snowy winter, we hope) and pretending that we weren't really expecting summer, anyway.  The 4th of July was  unusually beautiful and warm and all of Seattle was lulled into believing that we were due for a perfect summer of sunny and 70 every single day.  Apparently, the very same front that is keeping the east coast in temperatures over 100 is keeping the PNW in the 60s and rainy....I definitely prefer the latter.  So, we hit the trail despite the drizzle and headed to "Reason # 3472."

 The hike to Rattlesnake Ledge is just a 45 minute drive from Seattle.  I admit that I was a little skeptical--we generally prefer our hikes to be remote and a challenge to even get to the trailhead.  This one required a quick and easy drive on the freeway to a well-marked state park with a paved parking lot.  We stepped out of the parking and almost immediately into deep forest with all of the proper PNW woodsy characteristics.

Green

Mossy

Damp

Fernilicious

Elijah's hair serves as our humidity detector.

 Most of the trail was steep, but very well maintained and just a little crowded.

We found an abundance of dogs, people, and clouds at the top.

We weren't there long before the clouds began to lift and the sun came out.  Everyone was squinting and complaining about the sudden muggy heat---it was pushing 70 degrees!

Note the high alpine lake in the distance!

As is always the case with a steep climb....the walk down was fast and a serious knee-breaker.  The boys loved looking up at our accomplishment once we were finished.  Best thing about an "urban" hike---we jumped back in the car and drove 10 minutes to a great restaurant for a late lunch.  

Stats. for Rattlesnake Ledge:

Distance:  4 miles (2 straight up, 2 back down)

Elevation at top:  2078 ft

Elevation gain:  1160 ft. in 2 miles

Jellybeans:  6 each

EF rating:  steep, but easy.  awesome views, cool crevasse at the top that made mama very nervous.

JJ rating:  crowded, but worth it for the short drive.  perfect for a rainy day.

http://www.wta.org/go-hiking/hikes/rattle-snake-ledge

Eightmile...jellybeans, twizzlers, but no Eminems

Eightmile Lake

Despite a late start, we ventured further afield this week to the sunny, hot side of the Cascades.  Leavenworth, WA is always a strange adventure---it is a little "Bavarian" town high in the eastern Cascades--cheesy, but fun and quite pretty (and lots of beer gardens for apres hike).  The town is very close to some of the best and most challenging hiking in Washington--in particular, an area known as "the enchantments"--on our list, but not really achievable just yet.  We tried to do the Eightmile Lake trail last summer, but discovered upon our arrival that NO DOGS are allowed in the Alpine Lakes Wilderness.  Rather than leave Maisy tethered to the back of the car for the day (though Justin really wanted to), we drove a little further up the road to one of the nearby trails that does allow pooches.  In fact, this is how we landed on the wretched 4th of July Creek trail that is described in the 2010 hiking recap post.  The reason they allow dogs is because NO ONE hikes this insane trail, so no one cares if you happen to bring your dog.  

Anyway--back to the hike at hand.  We ditched poor Maisy in chilly, cloudy Seattle and took off for the east.  There is no easy way to get there, so it was quite a journey before we even got on the trail.

Some data:

Distance:  6.6 miles

EF rating:  on the hard end of easy

JJ rating: easy

Jellybeans:  10 each, plus a couple of twizzlers

Highlights:  lakes, crazy rivers/creeks running superfast with snowpack melt, chipmunks, wildflowers

Lowlights:  forest decimated by wildfire in the 1990's--no trees, hot, dusty

The big climb started right away.  We followed Icicle Creek most of the way.

Still in long sleeves...not for long

Elijah hiking up through the wildflowers

Finian sneaking up from the rear

Eightmile Pond---almost to the lake!

Triumphant!

The reward

Carpet of wildflowers

headed back down

Wildflower Meadow

The boys thought this was cool....I did not.

more meadows

forest fire to the left, thriving forest to the right

snowy peaks